Dabbing looks intimidating from the outside. There's a torch involved, people talk about temperatures in degrees, and the vocabulary — bangers, carb caps, terp pearls, cold start — sounds like a hobby with a steep entry fee.
It isn't, really. A dab rig is a small water pipe designed for concentrates instead of dry herb, and once you understand why each piece exists, the whole thing makes sense in about five minutes. Here's the beginner's version.
What is a dab rig?
A dab rig is a water pipe built for concentrates. Where a bong burns dry herb in a bowl, a rig vaporises concentrate against a piece of heated quartz called a banger.
Three things make rigs different from bongs:
They're smaller. Concentrate vapour is thin and dissipates fast. A large chamber means it cools too much and loses flavour before it reaches you. Most rigs are between 6 and 10 inches.
They use less water and simpler percolation. Heavy diffusion strips terpenes. Rigs favour minimal filtration — enough to cool, not enough to scrub the flavour out.
The joint runs cooler. Rigs use quartz rather than glass at the heat point, because glass bowls would crack and taste burnt.
The practical result: rigs are about flavour and efficiency, bongs are about volume and smoothness. Neither replaces the other.
Dab rig vs bong: which should you buy first?
If you're choosing between them and have never used either, buy the bong. It's more forgiving, needs no torch, and works with material that's far easier to get hold of.
Buy a rig if you specifically want concentrates and you care about flavour. The efficiency argument is real — a small amount of concentrate goes a long way — but the kit list is longer and the technique matters more.
Some people end up with both. There's no rule against a compact rig sitting next to a full-size tube.
The five things you actually need
1. The rig
Start small. A mini rig is genuinely the better beginner choice, not a compromise — the shorter vapour path preserves flavour, they're easier to clean, and they use less water. Look for a stable base, a 14mm joint (the most common size, so accessories are easy to find), and simple percolation.
Avoid tall, heavily percolated rigs at the start. They look impressive and they cool your vapour into nothing.
Browse the full dab rigs range to see what a sensible first rig looks like.
2. A quartz banger
The banger is where the concentrate goes. Quartz is the standard — it heats evenly, holds temperature reasonably, and doesn't affect taste the way titanium or ceramic can.
Two things matter: joint size (must match your rig — 14mm is most common) and joint angle (usually 45° or 90°, again matching your rig). Get either wrong and it won't seat properly.
Wall thickness affects heat retention. Thicker walls hold temperature longer but take longer to heat. For a first banger, a mid-thickness bottom like a gavel bottom banger is a sensible middle ground.
3. A torch
You need a proper butane torch, not a lighter. A lighter can't reach the temperature and coats your quartz in soot.
Look for adjustable flame and a decent gas reservoir — refilling constantly is tedious. A Raygun torch or Lightyear torch will both do the job comfortably; the whole lighters and torches range is worth a look.
Buy butane in bulk. You'll get through more than you expect.
4. A carb cap
This is the piece beginners skip and shouldn't. A carb cap sits over the banger after you've dropped the concentrate in, restricting airflow and lowering the pressure inside. Lower pressure means the concentrate vaporises at a lower temperature — better flavour, and nothing left burnt in the bottom.
Without a cap you'll waste concentrate on every dab and wonder why yours tastes harsher than everyone else's. Directional caps also let you spin the puddle around the banger walls, which improves efficiency further.
5. A dab tool
A metal or glass pick for handling concentrate. Different consistencies want different tools — a flat paddle for budder and badder, a pointed or scoop end for shatter. Most starter sets include a couple of shapes.
Add a terp pearl or two from our dab accessories range once you're comfortable; they roll around under the carb cap and spread the puddle for you.
Worth having, not essential
- A silicone or glass container for storing concentrate
- Cotton swabs — swabbing the banger while it's still warm after each dab is the single best maintenance habit there is
- An ISO Station for soaking bangers and caps when swabbing isn't enough
- A stand or holder so your rig isn't sitting somewhere it can be knocked over — a hand stand works and looks better than a shelf
Getting the temperature right
This is where beginners go wrong, and it's the difference between good and unpleasant.
Too hot (above roughly 450°C / 850°F) burns the concentrate. You get a harsh, acrid hit, a black stain in your banger, and you've destroyed the terpenes that carry the flavour.
Too cold (below roughly 200°C / 400°F) doesn't fully vaporise. The concentrate pools, you waste it, and the banger takes ages to clean.
The sweet spot for most people is roughly 230–290°C (450–550°F) at the banger surface. Lower in that range for flavour, higher for vapour volume.
How to hit it without a thermometer: heat the banger with the torch until it just starts to glow faintly, then take the flame off and wait. Thirty to forty-five seconds for a thin banger, sixty to ninety for a thick one. Drop the concentrate in, cap it, and draw slowly.
A digital infrared thermometer or an e-nail removes the guesswork entirely, but the timer method is perfectly workable while you're learning.
The five beginner mistakes
1. Taking too big a dab. Start with an amount the size of a grain of rice. Concentrates are far stronger than flower and the temptation to load more is the most common early mistake.
2. Skipping the cool-down. Dropping concentrate onto a glowing banger scorches it instantly. The wait is not optional.
3. Not using a carb cap. Wasteful, harsher, and leaves residue.
4. Never swabbing. Ten seconds with a cotton bud while the banger is still warm keeps quartz clear for months. Neglect it and you'll be soaking it in isopropyl weekly and eventually replacing it.
5. Overfilling with water. A rig needs far less than a bong — just enough to cover the downstem slits. Too much and you'll pull water into your mouth.
Keeping it clean
Concentrates leave residue that hardens with every heat cycle. The routine:
- After every dab: swab the banger while warm
- Weekly: soak the banger and carb cap in isopropyl
- Every 1–2 weeks: clean the rig itself — same method as a bong, and our full bong cleaning guide applies
Everything for this lives in cleaning products.
Frequently asked questions
How much does it cost to get started with dabbing?
A rig, banger, torch, cap and tool is a realistic starting kit. Check our bundles — buying the pieces together is usually cheaper than assembling them separately.
Can I use a dab rig without a torch?
Yes, with an e-nail or an electronic rig, which controls the temperature electronically. More expensive up front, far more consistent, and no butane.
What size banger do I need?
Match your rig's joint — size (10mm, 14mm or 18mm), gender (male or female) and angle (45° or 90°). 14mm male at 45° is the most common combination.
Can I use a dab rig for dry herb?
Technically with a bowl adapter, but it's not what the design is for. The chamber's too small and the draw's too restricted.
Why does my dab taste burnt?
Almost always too hot. Extend your cool-down by 15–20 seconds and try again.
How often should I replace my banger?
With good swabbing habits, many months. Once quartz goes permanently cloudy or chalky, it's done.
Ready to start? Have a look at our dab rigs, dab accessories, and the MJ Arsenal collection for compact glass that's built for exactly this.
18+ only. All products sold for legal use in accordance with UK and Irish law.